Soup Curry KING Central sits in the basement of the Kataoka Building, right across from the Moyuk Sapporo complex. The line here usually stretches up the stairs to street level, so even on a weekday we decided to arrive before opening.
Doors open at 11:30; we got there at 11:15. Three people were already waiting, and within minutes another eight lined up behind us, then two more. Looking around, nearly everyone in line seemed to be visiting from overseas.
While we waited, a staff member came out with menus and then took our orders right there in line. I went for the chicken and vegetable curry, spice level 2, with a smaller portion of rice; my wife chose the pork kakuni (braised pork belly) curry, also level 2 with less rice. Weekday lunch comes with a free drink, so we asked for an iced coffee and a ginger ale.
The doors opened at 11:32 and we were shown to our seats — nicely air-conditioned, with roughly 32 seats in all. Our drinks arrived almost immediately, along with paper aprons. Since we had already ordered in line, there was no waiting around to place an order.
The food landed at 11:34 — just two minutes after we sat down. This is a restaurant built to handle its lines, and the operation runs like clockwork.
What sets KING apart is its cloudy, milky-white soup, unlike any other soup curry in town. According to the menu, it is a double soup: a rich stock of chicken bones and pork bones simmered for two days, combined with a Japanese-style dashi of kombu, dried sardines, and bonito flakes. The first spoonful is firmly seasoned, with deep meaty umami and dashi flavor. The spice aroma is restrained, but the cayenne pepper heat hits hard, and the umami lingers long after each bite. For reference, level 2 is listed as "medium" on the menu, but it struck me as properly hot — if you are sensitive to spice, go with level 1 or 0.
The chicken leg appears to be simmered first and then deep-fried, giving it a fragrant, Maillard-browned crust over meat so tender it falls apart with a spoon. The combination of fried chicken and spices is somehow reminiscent of Kentucky Fried Chicken, in the best way. The vegetables — broccoli, shimeji mushrooms, carrot, cabbage, eggplant, pumpkin, okra, baby corn, green pepper, lotus root, potato, and a quail egg — are each generously cut, making for a very filling bowl.
I also tried a bite of my wife's kakuni: pork belly pressure-cooked until soft, flavored with soy sauce and a hint of star anise. The kakuni alone is satisfying enough to carry the dish.
The rice is faintly yellow with a little barley mixed in. A trace of oil left on the plate suggests it may be cooked with butter or oil — it had a subtle richness even eaten on its own.
We finished and stepped out at 11:53 to find about ten people waiting outside. Compared with the weekend lines, a weekday visit right at opening is a much easier way in.
